This service gives you the opportunity to try any bit you like on a 21 day trial. We take payment for the initial bit and will exchange the bit as many times as required to get the correct bit for your horse, provided you return the bit within 21 days of receipt. Once you have found a bit you are happy with, we will at that point refund or invoice you the difference.
There is a small charge of £5.00 for this lending service, levied on returned bits, provided bits are returned clean and in good condition. There is no lending charge on bits that are retained by the customer.

However, we reserve the right to levy a hire charge on any bits returned with excessive wear or damage at a cost of £10 per week. Please also make sure the bits are returned with the labels intact and in the plastic bag supplied. It is also recommended that when returning bits, they are sent by Post Office Special Delivery Service. This insures the bit in transit and offers a tracking service should it not arrive at its destination. If you have any queries please e-mail us.

Have a look at the range available to you and take advantage of reading about the bits and their actions - just click on the link

It is important to choose the right bit for the horse.

On the right there are links to topics on this page which may help you to understand which bit would be suitable for your horse.

Click the link for more information on Combination Bits

Myler Bits features
1.Tongue Relief/Curved Mouthpiece permits the horse to swallow freely, encouraging the horse to relax. Many traditional bits lie flat on the horse's tongue, restricting swallowing, often leading to resistance. With curved mouthpieces, Myler Bits distribute pressure more evenly across the tongue than traditional designs.

2. Mouthpiece Metals include copper Inlay to encourage salivation. Mouthpiece metals vary between Western and English bits with most English bits made with Stainless Steel and Copper Inlay.

3. Pinch and Restrict with a Release teaches the horse to relax at the poll and stay in his "comfort zone". With rein pressure, the mouthpiece collapses inward on the bars and rolls downward into the tongue. Once the horse relaxes at the poll, the pressure is released and the horse learns to stay in the pressure-free position.

4. Hooks offer leverage with direct action type bits. This feature rolls the mouthpiece forward and downward into the tongue and bars with rein pressure, encouraging the horse to break at the poll. Most traditional ring bits only apply backward pressure into the tongue and bars which can lead a horse to resist. The bit attaches to the headstall and reins with the rein or headstall going from the outside of the bit, through the slot and fastening as shown.
It will appear like a traditional ring bit from the side. With Full Cheek bits that have only one hook, it is important to use a bit keeper to secure the position of the headstall.

5. Independent Side Movement™ within the mouthpiece allows the rider to isolate one side of the bit. With traditional bits, a rider is not able to cause pressure to only one side, leading to and mis-communication and resistance. With Independent Side Movement™, a rider can choose to affect only one side, assisting in lifting a shoulder, or for balancing, bending and collection.

Information about 'Resistance'
Does your horse resist his current bit? If so, your horse is not relaxed in the bridle. Therefore, your communication is ineffective. Learn to recognize the signs of resistance:

• Behind the bit
• Inversion/above the bit
• Not stopping/running through the bit
• Dropping a shoulder
• Overactive mouth

With resistance, go softer, offering your horse a bit with less points of pressure. Here’s a few suggestions for resistance:

• for behind the bit, try a bit with less tongue pressure and possibly Independent Side Movement.™
• for inversion, try a bit with tongue pressure and tongue relief.
• for not stopping, consider a shank or combination bit with leverage pressure and mouthpieces
offering some tongue,bar and palate pressure.
• for dropping a shoulder, select a bit which offers Independent Side Movement.™
• for the overactive mouth, look for a bit which offers less points of pressure, especially tongue pressure.

Selecting the right bit
Myler Bits work as a system.
Every horse and rider combination has specific needs and therefore require the proper bit. As the needs of horse and rider change over time and progress, it may become necessary to upgrade to a different bit, or downgrade depending upon the level of your horse’s training.
In order to properly bit your horse it is essential to consider all of the following factors.

Your horse's mouth

Knowing the equine mouth is curcial to proper bitting,
Look inside. How is your horse's dental health? What do the bars and palate reveal? How thick and wide is that sensitive muscle, the tongue, where pressure and relief give the bit its main means of control? Though not part of the mouth, the chin and poll (located at the second vertebrae) both receive pressure from the bits. The chin, or curb, is affected by the bit's curb strap: the poll receives downward pressure through the headstall.

Think about the horse's level of training and the riders level of skill
LEVEL 1
Horse has just begun training or has had little training.
Is learning basic gaits, transitions and obedience.
Has begun to “break at the poll”

LEVEL 2
Basic training is established.
Relaxed at the poll; holds position when rein is released.
Possesses more complex skills such as bending, collection, side passes and lead changes

LEVEL 3
Horse considered broke or finished; willing to obey commands.
Relaxed at the poll.
Possesses advanced skills; works well off seat, legs and hands
Are you a beginner, intermediate or advanced rider? How are your hands?

RIDERS SKILLS
If you are building basic skills and/or have overactive hands, be mindful of bits which send too quick of a signal, including long shanks and/or straight shanks.

Take into account your discipline (dressage, eventing etc) and go with the level that fits
Though some categories overlap, training and skill levels correlate to the three levels of Myler Bits, all of them suitable for both Western and English riding. (If you compete, check with your sport's governing body to confirm which bits are legal for your event.)

LEVEL 1 BITS
*Feature curved mouthpiece that allows horse to swallow.
*Apply some bar pressure, but mostly on the tongue. (Myler Bits distribute tongue pressure more evenly than rival designs.)
*Feature Pinch & Restrict with Release.
*May also use tongue, curb, poll and/or palate pressure.

LEVEL 2 BITS
* Feature curved mouthpiece with tongue relief.
*Use more bar pressure relative to tongue pressure, with mouthpiece rolling onto, and sometimes collapsing into, the bars.
*May feature hooks, and apply curb, palate and/or poll pressure.
*May offer Independent Side Movement™.

LEVEL 3 BITS
*Feature curved mouthpiece with tongue relief.
*Use mostly bar pressure, rolling downward on the bars.
*Address various pressure points to take the horse as soft as possible; may also use tongue, curb, poll and/or palate pressure.
*May feature hooks and/or Independent Side Movement.™

Test your current bit
On a bare arm, place a regular, jointed Snaffle mouthpiece in the crook of your elbow, bending your arm upward at a 90 degrees angle. Have someone, directly infront of you, grab both rings and pull backward and slightly upward on the bit. The center of the mouthpiece will drive into your elbow and pinch the sides of your arm. Try lifting one side of the Snaffle upward and then the other—be careful, though, this could draw blood.

If you're like most people, this hurts and that pinch is what your horse's tongue and bars feel. When horses are asked to perform in Snaffle bits with constant rein pressure, it's an unrelenting pinch on the tongue and the bars. You can feel for yourself how hard it is for your horse to be comfortable, release his tongue and / or swallow without evading the bit.

Try this test with a variety of bits. You might notice that the Snaffle is not the gentlest of bits as it is sometimes reputed to be.

Which Mouthpiece?

Bristol Snaffle Level: One
Design: Curved mouthpiece with two joints with flat piece in center.

Function:
• Downward pressure on tongue
• Collapses on bars

Usage: Works well for beginning horses. A kinder, gentler bit than the Snaffle, the MB-10 works primarily off the tongue and bars applying more downward pressure that is evenly distrubuted across the tongue.

Low Port Comfort Snaffle Level: One, Two
Design: Curved mouthpiece with low-ported center barrel. 3/4" Port.

Function:
• Pressure on tongue and corners of the bars
• Slight collapse on the bars
• Tongue relief before restriction
• Independent Side Movement™

Usage: A good bit for horses in beginning stages of training and those needing some tongue relief.

Medium Wide Port Comfort Snaffle Level: Two, Three
Design: Curved mouthpiece with low ported center barrel. 1 1/4" Port.

Function:
• Puts pressure on corners and tops of bars
• Collapses slightly on lips
• No tongue or palate pressure on most horses
• Independent Side Movement™

Usage: Another mild mouthpiece, the MB 05 works well for the mature finished horse needing tongue relief. The slight collapse on the lips works well for English.

Correctional Ported Barrel Level: Two, Three
Design: Curved mouthpiece with two joints with upward-curved piece in the center.

Function:
• Downward pressure on tongue and bars
• Collapses on bars
• Palate pressure
• 2" Port

Usage: The MB-27 allows a rider to reward the horse with a “comfort zone” when relaxed at the poll. This bit is good for collection and stopping and works well on spoiled horses and horses that run through the bit.

Mullen Triple Barrel Level: Two, Three
Design: Curved mouthpiece, jointed with three barrels in the center.

Function:
• Pressure on tongue and corners of the bars
• Slight collapse on bars
• Turns solid when asking for a stop
• Independent Side Movement™

Special Note: More tongue relief than the 32, center barrels are quite flexible and allow the horse to elevate its tongue when swallowing. A good step up from the snaffle, this is a useful bit for horses needing some freedom of the tongue and it offers the rider a sensitive feel.

Mullen Barrel Level: Two, Three
Design: Curved mouthpiece with jointed barrel in center.

Function:
• Pressure on tongue and corners of the bars
• Turns solid when asking for a stop
• Independent Side Movement™

Usage: Good choice for the intermediate horse. Encourages horse to break at the poll but keeps him from getting behind the bit or inverting. The Independent Side Movement allows a rider to isolate one side and pick up a shoulder.

Forward Tilt Ported Barrel Level: Two, Three
Design: Curved mouthpiece with upward curve and jointed barrel in center. Entire mouthpiece is tilted forward. Center tilted forward 1 1/4". 3/4" Port.

Function:
• Restricts tongue
• Downward pressure on bars
• Restrict and release
• Independent Side Movement™

Usage: Works well with intermediate and finished horses. A good bit for bending or lifting a horse who gets behind the bridle. Good bit for stopping, works well for horses in need of a lot of tongue relief.

Correctional Ported Barrel Level: Two, Three
Design: Curved mouthpiece with upward and forward bend, two hinges and center piece with a barrel. Port measures 2".

Function:
• Tongue relief before restriction
• Bar pressure
• Will not pinch or drive downward into tongue
• Independent Side Movement™

Usage: The 41PB is a nice mouthpiece for more spirited horses needing more tongue relief. Featuring Independent Side Movement, it is good for stopping and lifting a shoulder.

Low Ported Barrel Narrow Level: Two, Three
Design: Curved mouthpiece with low-ported center barrel. Port measures 1".

Function:
• Downward tongue and bar pressure
• Tongue pressure before tongue relief
• Does not collapse on bars or pinch the tongue
• Turns solid when stopping
• No palate pressure
• Independent Side Movement™

Usage: Like the 43, MB-43LP offers a “comfort zone” when horse is relaxed at the poll. Independent Side Movement works well for bending, balancing, collection and lifting a shoulder. Well suited to horses that tend to invert and run through the bit.

Ported Barrel Level: Three
Design: Curved mouthpiece with upward curve and jointed barrel in center. 1 1/2" Port.

Function:
• Downward pressure on top of bars
• No tongue pressure
• Some palate pressure
• Turns solid when asking for a stop

Special Note: A very mild mouthpiece that works well for mature and finished horses, be cautious of using on younger horses.

Which Cheek style?

Full Cheek Without Hook (with Hook available)

Design: A ring with spindle where the mouthpiece is fixed onto the ring. Spindle top is bent away from ring to prevent rubbing.

Function: Direct action - when pressure is exerted on the reins same amount of pressure is exerted on the mouth. Sends mor of a direct signal than loose ring. Will not pinch or pull through mouth. When spindles are attached to the bridle cheekpiece with the use of a bit keeper the bit offers slight poll pressure. When reins are pulled back the rings tilt slightly forward and offer a subtle downward pressure on the poll.

Usage: Used in English disciplines.

Options: One hook is available on Full Cheeks. The hook fixes the attachment of reins and allows bit to work like a leverage bit. When the reins are pulled upward and backward the mouthpiece rolls downward and backward in the mouth while pulling downward on the poll.

Loose Ring

Design: A simple ring where the mouthpiece has no fixed point of attachment. but simply slides around the ring.

Function: Direct action- applies the same amount of rein pressure to mouth. Loose rings allow the horse some play with the bit in the mouth.

Usage: Used in English and Western.

English D with Hooks

Design: A “D” shaped ring with fixed attachment of the mouthpiece.

Function: Direct action - applies same amount of rein pressure to the mouth. More direct signal than Loose Ring. Will not pull through the mouth or pinch.

Usage: Used in English and Western.

Options: Hooks are available on Dee Rings. Hooks fix attachment of reins and headstall and allow bit to work like a leverage bit. When reins are pulled upward and backward, mouthpiece rolls downward and backward into the mouth while pulling downward on the po

Kimberwick

Design: A Dee ring with a short straight purchase at the top of the Dee. The headstall is affixed to the purchase and the rein is then attached to the Dee. The rein has a fixed attachment to one or two hooks.

Function: Functions as both a direct action and leverage bit using a curb strap or chain. If the rien is attached to the top hook, it works as a direct action bit, exerting the same amount of pressure on the mouth as on the reins. If the rein is attached to the bottom hook, it works like a leverage bit, tilting the mouthpiece forward and applying pressure to the parts of the mouth curb and poll.

Usage: Used in English disciplines.

Options: Patented bushing system which allows the shank to turn independently of the mouthpiece, purchase and headstall.

Pelham

Design: Using two reins, the Pelham is a combination between a Dee ring and straight shank. The Pelham has three rings on the shank: the top ring is for the headstall and curb chain, the center Dee ring for the first rein and the bottom ring is for the second rein.

Function: Operates as both a direct action and leverage bit using a curb strap or chain. With pressure on the first rein, it works as a direct action bit, exerting the same amount of pressure on the mouth as on the reins. With pressure on the second or bottom rein, it works as a leverage bit, tilting the mouthpiece forward and applying pressure to the parts of the mouth, curb and poll.

Usage: Used in English disciplines.

Options: Patented bushing system which allows the shank to turn independently of the mouthpiece, purchase and headstall.

Eggbutt without Hooks

Design: Need info on eggbutt

Function: Need info on eggbutt
Usage: Used in Western disciplines.

Options: Need info on eggbutt

Combinations

Short Shank / Long Shank

Design: A hybrid of a ring bit, shank bit and Hackamore. The design features a large center ring for mouthpiece attachment, a top ring for headstall attachment and a bottom ring for rein attachment. The bottom ring is directly attached to the center mouthpiece ring. The mouthpiece slides freely on the center ring until arrested by a “ring stop”.

Function: Automatically disperses or releases direct action and leverage pressures to the horse’s mouth, chin, nose and poll. Light pressure is applied to the mouth as the mouthpiece slides on the ring. After contacting the “ring stop,” the mouthpiece will engage completely and apply more downward pressure. Also, the backward and downward pressure of the noseband and the forward pressure of the curb strap are extremely effective at asking a horse to relax at the poll.

Usage: Used in both English and Western disciplines.

Options: Short Shank, Long Shank, Variety of mouthpieces.

Helpful hints
1. Take your time. Knowing whether a bit is going to work or not takes time. Sometimes a horse will let you know that it is the right bit or the wrong bit in as little as 20 minutes, but often it takes several rides in a particular bit to know for sure. Plan on between three and ten rides to let you decide if a bit is going to be the right choice for you and your horse.

2. Properly introduce the bit. It is important to be able to “read” your horse with a new bit. The Mylers do not recommend using any tack or equipment which will infringe your horse's ability to communicate with you. Therefore, it is not advisable to use flash nose bands, figure-8 nose bands, martingales, draw reins, tie-downs, etc. If you do use a nose band, it should be a regular caveson and worn loose enough that the jaw is free. (Space for two fingers or more usually works . . .)

When trying a new bit, give your horse plenty of time to get used to the taste and the feel of the new bit. Bridle your horse with the new bit and simply let him stand unmounted with the bit. Let him investigate it with his tongue. He may chew a little bit more than normal while he discovers the new feel. After 10 to 15 minutes he should be more relaxed.

The next step is to simulate the bit's action to your horse prior to mounting. This way he can anticipate what the bit will do without having to concentrate on your other cues if mounted. This is also a way for you to anticipate his behavior with the bit. Standing near his left shoulder, place the reins over his neck. Grab both reins just in front of the withers to simulate where the reins would be when mounted. Next, steady the rein in one hand and gently apply rein pressure with the other, activating the bit and asking your horse to relax at the poll. When the horse gives to the pressure, release with your hand. He may take a step or two backwards or forwards as he gets used to the action. Ideally, your horse should gently lower his head onto the vertical, releasing his own pressure and learning to stay in his “comfort zone.” After some time, he should not be stepping forward or backward in this exercise. This exercise is a great way to introduce bits as well as supple a horse prior to work. The Mylers highly recommend working with your horse on the ground as part of the transition to a new bit.

3. Anticipate some resistance. If your horse has been resistant in his current bit, there is a strong likelihood he will be resistant in his new bit. Simply put - he is going to try what he knows. Here are some suggestions on how to deal with particular forms of resistance.

Chomping and chewing: This may take some patience on your part and some trust on your horse’s part. Horses generally chomp and chew as a resistance to too much tongue pressure. With your new bit, you should not have as much tongue pressure, but it may take your horse some time to realize this. He will need to “trust” his new bit from restricting his tongue as his previous bit did. So, give your horse time to learn to relax, this may take days. Next, release your horse when he is in position. If you are constantly applying pressure on his mouth, he may not have opportunity to relax.

Inverting: Inversion is fairly common. The main thing your horse is doing is controlling the application of the bit’s action by staying up out of the “pressure zone.” Your new bit should give the pressure you need to ask him to relax at the poll to his “comfort zone” and give him the pressure relief he's looking for. Many horses will try to invert with the new bit; you will need to ask the horse to go forward and apply consistent pressure until they relax at the poll. Once the horse relaxes at the poll, release rein pressure. Always ask the horse to go forward. Some horses may resist by stopping, flipping their head, grabbing the bit, etc., but always ask the horse to go forward. If the horse needs some encouragement to relax at the poll, here's an option to try.

First, simulate the bit’s action while on the ground as discussed in #2. Next, while mounted, warm your horse up on a loose rein. After 10 minutes or so, ask your horse to relax at the poll with some rein pressure. Try circling and using inside rein pressure, pulled toward your outside hip, and subtly “bump” the inside rein. Once the horse relaxes at the poll, release rein pressure. If still resistant and not improving, try the following: set the horse’s head where you would like it. Gather up your reins, keep contact on the horse’s mouth and double the reins over from one hand to the other, like a jockey. Let out 1 1/2’ to 2’ of rein so that the horse has a “comfort zone” to go to, fix your hand position, keep a steady feel of the reins and “lock” your elbows. As you ask your horse to go forward, let the horse pull into your hands and then release himself by relaxing at the poll. It may feel like your horse is getting a bit worse before getting better, but as long as he learns to release himself, you are headed in the right direction. Keep these sessions brief and always reward when the horse is responding the way you want. Leverage and curb pressure can be very helpful for horses that invert by effectively rolling the mouthpiece downward. Be sure your curb strap or chain is adjusted properly with room for only two fingers. Too loose and the cheek rotates too far around before engaging the curb chain. The curb chain hits too late and too hard, possibly upsetting your horse and not giving you the control you are looking for. Too tight and the horse is not rewarded with a comfort zone and is uncomfortable and distracted. When adjusted correctly, the curb chain engages with slight rotation of the cheek, adding more downward pressure to the mouthpiece, offering more control and encouragement for the horse to relax at the poll and stay balanced. Because an inverted horse is not used to working while relaxed at the poll, he will tire quickly and easily. Keep sessions short and always finish on a good note where the horse releases himself.

4.Additional things to note: Here are a couple more helpful hints for transitioning to a new bit.

Hooks: Offering leverage, Hooks make ring bits more versatile. Be sure to have the headstall and reins adjusted properly when using bits with hooks. With English Dees & Eggbutts—the top hook is next to the small curb chain hole. With Full Cheeks—there is no top hook, but only a bottom hook. The top of the bit is fastened with a bit keeper. Western Dees—the hooks are flexible and can be used in either top or bottom position.The headstall and reins should go around the outside of the ring, through the slot (or hook) and then fastened. The bit should appear as a traditional bit from the side. Should you not want the leverage action, simply place the rein on the outside of the ring above the slot area and it will work like a traditional bit.

Quick Links: These are very handy hooks to use with curb chains. Can be placed and removed easily by simply linking the chain and fastening around the purchase or in the curb chain hole.

Mouthpiece sizing: Myler Bits can run a bit bigger than other traditional bits, especially the jointed mouthpieces. All Myler mouthpieces are measured cheek to cheek with a curve in the mouthpiece, just as it would lay in the horse's mouth when being used. Traditional bits are measured laying flat, but if they are a broken/jointed mouthpiece, they do not lay in the mouth like that. You always want 1/8" to 1/4" of bit outside the lips on each side.

To measure your horse for a Myler Bit, you will want to measure the width of his mouth using a bitting stick or dowel. This way you are measuring from cheek to cheek, just as Myler mouthpieces are measured. So if your horse's mouth is 4 5/8" across, then he takes a 5" Myler.
If he is 5 1/4" across than he takes a 5 1/2" Myler. This allows for extra bit outside the lips as suggested.

Mouthpiece metals: Myler Bits that are available in the UK are made with Stainless Steel.

For most English Myler Bits, Stainless Steel with Copper Inlay is used based on the traditions in English tack and show turnout.

For best results and care of your bit, wipe down the mouthpiece after riding. Not only does this keep the bit clean, but it slows the rust down even more. The mouthpiece should offer you years and years of use, but take care not to store the bit in damp, wet areas to prolong its usage.The hinged area of the bit is Stainless Steel so it will not rust and/or seize up with wear.

For additional advice on transitioning to a new bit or other bitting issues, please feel free to E-mail or phone us as needed. We’re more than happy to help.

Care of your bit
For best results and care of your bit, wipe down the mouthpiece after riding. Not only does this keep the bit clean, but it slows the rust down even more. The mouthpiece should offer you years and years of use, but take care not to store the bit in damp, wet areas to prolong its usage.

The hinged area of the bit is Stainless Steel so it will not rust and/or seize up with wear.

Myler Bits features - Information about 'Resistance' - Selecting the right bit - Test your current bit
Which Mouthpiece? - Which Cheek style? - Helpful hints - Care of your bit